How to Choose Reciprocating Saw Blades (and Make Them Last)

Which reciprocating saw blade do I need for each material?

A reciprocating saw blade is often called a Sawzall blade, after Milwaukee's brand name. You choose one by three numbers: teeth per inch (TPI), length and thickness. This table gives our pick for each common material.

All of these blades are made in the USA by ITM. They have bi-metal teeth with 8% cobalt, hardened to Rc 65–67, except the MaxMetal line, which has carbide teeth. Browse every size in our reciprocating saw blade collection.

What does TPI mean, and how many teeth should a blade have?

TPI is teeth per inch. The rule is to keep at least three teeth in the material at all times. With fewer than three, each tooth takes too big a bite, so teeth snag and snap off. With far more than you need, chips clog the gaps between teeth in thick wood and the cut slows down.

To check a blade, multiply the material thickness by the TPI. A 1/8-in. wall times 24 TPI puts 3 teeth in the cut.

Pipe: measure the wall, not the pipe

For pipe, the wall thickness sets the TPI and the outside diameter sets the length. These are standard Schedule 40 steel pipe sizes from ASME B36.10.

On thin-wall pipe, tilt the saw so the blade enters at a shallow angle. That puts more teeth in contact and stops the blade from grabbing.

A variable pitch (VP) blade, such as a 10/14, mixes two tooth spacings on one blade. It is the easy choice when the wall thickness changes during the cut, and the uneven spacing cuts vibration. The FAQ below explains how it works.

What length reciprocating saw blade do I need?

Pick a blade at least 3 inches longer than the thickest material or the widest pipe you are cutting. Most saws move the blade 1 to 1-1/4 in. per stroke. The tip needs to stay past the far side of the work, with room to spare behind the shoe.

• 4–6 in.: tight spaces, sheet metal, conduit and small pipe. Short blades wobble less.
• 8–9 in.: general demolition, 2x lumber and pipe up to about 4 in.
• 10–12 in.: thick beams, tree limbs, large pipe, and flush cuts where the blade needs to flex.

Longer is not always better. An extra-long blade bends and wanders on a short cut, so buy the shortest blade that clears the work.

How thick should a reciprocating saw blade be?

Thicker blades bend less, and thinner blades flex for flush cuts. Standard metal blades are about .035 in. thick. Demolition blades are .062 in., about 1.8 times as thick, which is why they survive nails and prying.

Bi-metal or carbide: when is a carbide blade worth it?

Buy carbide when you cut cast iron, rebar or anything abrasive more than once in a while. A carbide blade costs more per blade. But it lasts many times longer in material that wears bi-metal teeth down in a few cuts.

Store prices on Sept 27, 2026. Bulk packs of 25 or 50 cost less per blade.

A carbide blade costs about 3.5 times as much as a Heavy-Metal blade. If it makes more than 3.5 times as many cuts in your material, it is the cheaper blade. ITM rates its carbide recips to outlast standard blades by up to 50 times.

"Carbide recips are noticeably smoother and less violent. I get upwards of three dozen heavy-duty cuts out of one blade. They last a lot longer than anything without carbide."

David Castro, President, Eldorado Tools

At three dozen cuts per carbide blade and today's prices, a Heavy-Metal blade has to last about 10 heavy-duty cuts to be the cheaper choice. If yours dies sooner, carbide saves money. It is also easier on your arms.

Will these blades fit my saw, and how do I change the blade?

Yes, if your saw takes a 1/2-in. universal shank. Nearly every corded and cordless reciprocating saw does, including DeWalt, Milwaukee Sawzall, Makita, Ryobi, Bosch, Ridgid and Craftsman. All of our reciprocating saw blades use the 1/2-in. universal shank.

1. Remove the battery or unplug the saw.
2. Twist the blade clamp collar, or flip the lever on newer saws, and pull the old blade out.
3. Push the new blade's shank all the way in, teeth facing down for normal cuts. Face them up to cut close to a floor or ceiling.
4. Let the clamp snap back, then tug the blade to make sure it is locked.

How do I make a reciprocating saw blade last longer?

Most blades die from heat, not wear. Slow the saw down for metal, let the weight of the saw do the feeding, and use the whole length of the blade. Our guide to speed and overheating in cutting tools explains why heat ruins teeth.

• Slow down for metal. Run high speed for wood and about half speed for steel. Fast strokes in steel overheat the teeth and turn them blue.
• Turn orbital action off for metal. Orbital mode speeds up wood cuts but chips teeth in steel.
• Keep the shoe tight to the work. A gap lets the saw hammer the blade and snap teeth.
• Do not force it. Pushing hard bends the blade and slows the cut.
• Use cutting oil on metal. A few drops cut heat and friction. On sappy wood, a wax stick stops binding.
• Rock the saw slightly. Changing the angle spreads wear across more teeth.
• Replace bent or chipped blades. A blade missing teeth tears the cut and can bind.

Troubleshooting

Reciprocating saw safety basics

Wear safety glasses, gloves and hearing protection. Clamp the work, and check walls for wiring and pipes before a blind cut.

• Unplug or remove the battery before you change blades.
• Blades are hot after a metal cut. Let them cool or wear gloves.
• Keep both hands on the saw, and keep your body out of the blade's path in case it kicks.

Updated Sept 27, 2026: rewrote this guide with TPI and length rules, a pipe sizing table, blade thickness specs, price per blade, variable pitch and a troubleshooting table. First published May 21, 2023.